Location, location, location!
Ukrainian Victory Day is actually May 9, but there is a monument with a soldier, a sailor and a marine just a few feet from our ship that is the site of speeches, dozens of school kids who walked across the pedestrian bridge to attend this morning. Our group was meeting this morning and heard the loud speaker so we simply watched them from the 5th deck as two older veterans and three younger politicians gave speeches. Then all the guests and the children, ages 9-15?, laid their flowers at the base of the statue.
We have a few hours of free time before an interview with an Orthodox seminary professor, then we fly to Istanbul for two nights. It is difficult to believe our time in the Ukraine is ending. At a farewell party last night we thanked our cruise guide, ate a bit of cheese and salami, drank a bit of vodka and shared a funny story and appreciation with her. Masha has worked on this ship several years, April to late October, so the crew is like a big family (110). We were their first cruise of the year, but everything has gone very smoothly. We will miss our beds being made every morning, our beds being turned down every evening and the candy on our pillows. The starched napkins are folded differently every lunch and dinner (shoes, pillow, book, rose, etc.) Waitress Diane and waiter Budalay serve every course, get our drinks, refill our coffee .... We are spoiled.
The Ukraine and its people will be dear to my heart now. Their centuries of suffering are beyond my comprehension but I so admire their tenacity and strong love of their heritage. All our guides have had amazing candor about hard times, even under the Soviets or current politicians.
Tuesday, May 8, 2012
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Kiev
The crew begins early; they are washing the three upper decks and the cabin windows before the morning "radio" music begins to play at 7a.m. Our group are usually at breakfast early but this morning we leave the ship at 8a.m., boarding a bus for a driving and walking tour of a small part of Podol, the older part of this huge city. A tiny church of patron saint Nicholas is only a few hundred feet from our Dnieper Princess; as patron of sailors (and children) it is appropriate that he is patron saint of Kiev. In addition to the various destructive events of the 20th century, there was a huge fire in Kiev in 1811, meaning many popular buildings have been reconstructed at least once in the last 200 years. Statues and giant memorials seem to be in every direction; a titanium statue of Mother Russia was built in 1982, overlooking the river, the huge rainbow commemorating the brotherhood of Ukraine and Russia about the same time. (The 1500 year anniversary of Kiev and Rus were celebrated then). Some have been rebuilt since the 1991 independence from Russia.
St. Michael's Cathedral (for Archangel Michael) is the first we walk to, past a trio of Ukraine heroes. St. Olga, grandmother of Prince Vladimer who brought Christianity to Rus from Byzantium, in hopes of uniting the many different tribes of the eastern European area, is flanked by the figure of St. Andrew, reputed to have come near this area in the first century, sharing the Gospel, and the figures of brothers Methodius and Cyril, who failed at converting Rus to Christianity, but translated the Gospel for future generations by creating the Cyrillic alphabet. St. Michael's is gorgeous pale blue with white ornate trim. We hear one service being sung by priest in the surviving Ukrainian style refectory building, then hear the end of another service in the main chapel, at least 200 tourists and worshippers milling around and referencing the many icons, leaving flowers or lighting taper candles for prayers (only 1 UHL, or 12 cents). (remember that Orthodox don't sit but stand and walk around during their services)
We then walk a short distance to St Andrew's, but because of major road construction, we can only admire it 100 yards away. We walk another block back to the square, then enter the famous St. Sophia Cathedral, important when signing national documents, installing new leaders, etc. It is a museum, not an active church, but frescos from 11th century forward are visible on almost every surface. They have restored a few of the original ones in 1843-1853, but left some later layers showing, too. The iconostasis was redone on orders of Catherine the Great in rich golden Baroque style. The nineteen domes also glisten with gold
St. Michael's Cathedral (for Archangel Michael) is the first we walk to, past a trio of Ukraine heroes. St. Olga, grandmother of Prince Vladimer who brought Christianity to Rus from Byzantium, in hopes of uniting the many different tribes of the eastern European area, is flanked by the figure of St. Andrew, reputed to have come near this area in the first century, sharing the Gospel, and the figures of brothers Methodius and Cyril, who failed at converting Rus to Christianity, but translated the Gospel for future generations by creating the Cyrillic alphabet. St. Michael's is gorgeous pale blue with white ornate trim. We hear one service being sung by priest in the surviving Ukrainian style refectory building, then hear the end of another service in the main chapel, at least 200 tourists and worshippers milling around and referencing the many icons, leaving flowers or lighting taper candles for prayers (only 1 UHL, or 12 cents). (remember that Orthodox don't sit but stand and walk around during their services)
We then walk a short distance to St Andrew's, but because of major road construction, we can only admire it 100 yards away. We walk another block back to the square, then enter the famous St. Sophia Cathedral, important when signing national documents, installing new leaders, etc. It is a museum, not an active church, but frescos from 11th century forward are visible on almost every surface. They have restored a few of the original ones in 1843-1853, but left some later layers showing, too. The iconostasis was redone on orders of Catherine the Great in rich golden Baroque style. The nineteen domes also glisten with gold
Friday, May 4, 2012
Kremenchug
This afternoon we have walked almost a mile into city center of Kremenchug. It's prime industry is making large cargo trucks. There was a delightful garden with bronze figures from several childrens fairy tales... Including Pinnocchio and the dwarves with Snow White, as well as a crocodile from Ukrainian children's tale.
The weather is warm and sunny. About 25 other English speaking people have joined our group of 14 for these few hours. Our group is from Ohio, NC, Chicago...all people who knew Bruce Rigdon one way or another. We try to have at least one "lecture" a day about Orthodoxy (just our 14), but there are some optional activities that a few of us sign up for that make each day's schedule different.
The sounds are probably most different; Ukrainian and Russian are spoken most on the ship. Ukrainian is the official language of the country since 1991 independence and dissolution of the USSR. Yet some cities, like Odessa, still use Russian...and there are Russians traveling on the ship. Most of them are not interested in our touristy trips off ship, instead sunning in the 4th deck. We had a language lesson yesterday morning; 36 characters to the Cyrillic alphabet. It seems that half of them sound like s, sh, ch, sch, stch, or x. Town names, names of historical figures all seem to be a minimum of five syllables, and spelled differently every time I see them transcribed into English, making it difficult to be sure who is being spoken of. In addition, the Ukraine is positioned centrally, like Kansas, and also the bread basket of this area. And for at least 10 centuries, has been coveted and conquered from one side or the other: Polish from the west, Turkey from the south, Russia from the north, and the Mongols from the east having been the most destructive. And the geographic names change through the centuries.
Do you sense the confusion for us? A four part film has actually been very helpful to follow the development from around 900 A.D. Through the 21 years of independence for the Ukraine.
People look much the same, just more skirts for women, men always are carrying some sort of valued or tote bag and the shoes of men and women are terrific!
Food continues to be very good; soup and salad accompany entrees for every lunch and dinner, as well as desserts. Starched napkins are a table standard, folded beautifully in various shapes. There was a napkin folding lesson this morning, including a Cossack shoe, a rose, a carnation, a fan, a double candlestick, a pillow, etc.
The weather is warm and sunny. About 25 other English speaking people have joined our group of 14 for these few hours. Our group is from Ohio, NC, Chicago...all people who knew Bruce Rigdon one way or another. We try to have at least one "lecture" a day about Orthodoxy (just our 14), but there are some optional activities that a few of us sign up for that make each day's schedule different.
The sounds are probably most different; Ukrainian and Russian are spoken most on the ship. Ukrainian is the official language of the country since 1991 independence and dissolution of the USSR. Yet some cities, like Odessa, still use Russian...and there are Russians traveling on the ship. Most of them are not interested in our touristy trips off ship, instead sunning in the 4th deck. We had a language lesson yesterday morning; 36 characters to the Cyrillic alphabet. It seems that half of them sound like s, sh, ch, sch, stch, or x. Town names, names of historical figures all seem to be a minimum of five syllables, and spelled differently every time I see them transcribed into English, making it difficult to be sure who is being spoken of. In addition, the Ukraine is positioned centrally, like Kansas, and also the bread basket of this area. And for at least 10 centuries, has been coveted and conquered from one side or the other: Polish from the west, Turkey from the south, Russia from the north, and the Mongols from the east having been the most destructive. And the geographic names change through the centuries.
Do you sense the confusion for us? A four part film has actually been very helpful to follow the development from around 900 A.D. Through the 21 years of independence for the Ukraine.
People look much the same, just more skirts for women, men always are carrying some sort of valued or tote bag and the shoes of men and women are terrific!
Food continues to be very good; soup and salad accompany entrees for every lunch and dinner, as well as desserts. Starched napkins are a table standard, folded beautifully in various shapes. There was a napkin folding lesson this morning, including a Cossack shoe, a rose, a carnation, a fan, a double candlestick, a pillow, etc.
Monday, April 30, 2012
Odessa, Sebastopol
As we sit on patio of fish restaurant that isn't open for lunch, we finally have very slow Internet.
Sebastopol is totally rebuilt since WWII, so light and airy...the day is warm and sunny.
Ever since boarding the plane in Chicago, I'm struck that Ukrainians have survived so much in the last century that we cover in a few pages of history books. Ukraine has changed a great deal in their 20 years of independence from the USSR, much of it now realistic financial and economic struggle. The centuries of being between numerous huge empires has meant much turmoil interspersed with times of grandeur and protection under the major powers, only to be invaded as the next great conqueror wants to expand.
In recent times, the Crimean War, 1850, was a major international battle for sea control, with the city of Sebastopol levered, then rebuilt. take over byRussians happened again after 1917Bolshevik Revolution with the city of Sebastopol again leveled in 1942 with theNazi takeover. Its 150,000 pop. Was reduced to 2000 by 1944.
Our guides speak plainly of governmental corruption, but are proud of their citizens.
On a personal note, we did get to the Odessa Art Museum yesterday, so saw a few 17th century icons. The Saturday visit to an Odessa monastery was a high point.
Sebastopol is totally rebuilt since WWII, so light and airy...the day is warm and sunny.
Ever since boarding the plane in Chicago, I'm struck that Ukrainians have survived so much in the last century that we cover in a few pages of history books. Ukraine has changed a great deal in their 20 years of independence from the USSR, much of it now realistic financial and economic struggle. The centuries of being between numerous huge empires has meant much turmoil interspersed with times of grandeur and protection under the major powers, only to be invaded as the next great conqueror wants to expand.
In recent times, the Crimean War, 1850, was a major international battle for sea control, with the city of Sebastopol levered, then rebuilt. take over byRussians happened again after 1917Bolshevik Revolution with the city of Sebastopol again leveled in 1942 with theNazi takeover. Its 150,000 pop. Was reduced to 2000 by 1944.
Our guides speak plainly of governmental corruption, but are proud of their citizens.
On a personal note, we did get to the Odessa Art Museum yesterday, so saw a few 17th century icons. The Saturday visit to an Odessa monastery was a high point.
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Departure Day
We get on a plane in 14 hours to begin a huge adventure. I'm not ready but it's my mind more than my suitcase I'm thinking about. There's so much to "do" here at home, people grieving at funerals, people in pain wondering if it's cancer, people preparing to be an organ donor for a loved one, people cleaning out a childhood home as the beloved parent slowly exits this life, people preparing for a new baby, Samson asking for another tummy rub, people celebrating new marriage at the age of 70..or 80...yet because we got excited several months ago when we were offered new places to see, exciting things to do, we are leaving these people we care about. Our last two weeks are a pilgrimage: a trip one makes expecting to return home again having been changed/transformed for the better.
Well, I'm not sure how that is measured, but the plane is booked, confirmed, so we will leave at the appointed hour, hoping for this transformation to "the better".
Well, I'm not sure how that is measured, but the plane is booked, confirmed, so we will leave at the appointed hour, hoping for this transformation to "the better".
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