Rain, rain, go away....

A rainy day in Edinburgh. After a huge breakfast that didn't include the baked beans, we caught the local bus just acres the street from the hotel. Stan was determined to find the Vodophone shoanise get his phone fixed. The buildings in Edinburgh, like buildings in Istanbul and Kiev, are stone, but here they are rarely over three stories and stone is darker, from brown to actual black paint. Auburn tresses Fiona tried several ways but couldn't activate the phone with the new sim card. We continued to walk, going through a lovely park and eighteenth century cemetery to ending up at Holy Rood. We took time to see the collection of art in the gallery from the various palaces and residences of Queen Elizabeth II, about to celebrate her Diamond Jubilee in a few weeks. Charles I was the first major English monarch to collect art; his substantial collection was scattered but much was reclaimed under Charles II. The 60-70 items included works of Rubens, Van Dyck, Holbein, da Vinci, as well as exquisite jewelry items, Sevres china and rare first copies of prayer book from the second print done in Mainz, Germany. Well, the above was day 1 in Edinburgh, somehow it was saved as draft. So, today, a week layer, I'm trying to remember that day. It was very cold and continued to rain. Stan was sure we had to travel the entire Royal Mile, even past the Edinburgh Castle to get to the correct bus stop. We did stop in for appropriate plaid souvenirs at little shops, but it was a long walk then a wet and cold wait for the right bus. The hot shower was greatly appreciated when we got back to our Braid Hills room. We knew to expect rain but with such warm weather in Ukraine, the colder than usual Scotland will take some adjusting

Snuggling, rated G

As I snuggle in the sheets while Stan is spending his first time of the day with Internet, I realize that all our sheets on this trip have been multi-layered, like duvets. The cotton "envelope" is filled with thick layers instead of our American way of one thin sheet with additional single layers sliding around on top. On the ship in the Ukraine (Dnieper Princess, remember?) the bottom sheet was also a filled envelope, just the width and length of the berth. The top sheet was twice the size, but folded to the size of the berth, then a decorative top in the same brocade as the upholstered seat (and window curtains) was over it. When they prepared our beds at night , this top cover was folded neatly and put on the shelf (I still used mine as extra cover). The hotel in Warsaw (first night), the hotel in Istanbul, in Edinburgh and now here all have similar configurations. A woolen blanket was the insert on the ship; here it is a prepared flannel filled with additional stuffing. All the sheets have been cotton; I've noticed very few synthetic fabrics.

The skies seem huge here. Since we're on top floor (fifth) and few buildings are any taller, that seems obvious, but delightful nonetheless.

This room is about the size of hotel rooms in US, but the entry with arched door is larger than our ship room. The linoleum floor of the bath (again, as large as our ship room) is heated, at least at the entryway.

Having missed breakfast here, we're headed out to forage for our breakfast. Stan's wearing the new shirt he got at department store Debenham's, Ocean Terminal in Edinburgh to replace the knit shirt that got torn somehow in earlier days of camera straps, backpack straps, etc.

Oh, the woes of shopping in new cities! (Throw me into that brier patch!)

Perth

A very nice couple at breakfast took the time to explain common funeral arrangements to me. They had been at the hotel several days, meeting with family who had gathered at the wake of their grandmother. After the church service and burial, the hotel was the site of several hours of reception. They seemed to feel that their churches just weren't big enough to hold a reception after the service. I suppose the oddness to me was the sign in the hotel lobby that simply announced the funeral group to be held that day. Yet for them it is common.

After one last view of Old Town Edinburgh from our window, we rode a taxi to Waverly Station to get the train to Perth. The taxi driver was very chatty; hes driving his son to nearby town this evening to interview for 1000 pound scholarship to help with his medical school. That means the driver won't get home until almost midnight tonight, but he's very proud of his son.

The countryside on the hour and half ride was beautiful. Alternating areas of fields with a few Holstein and large deep green fields, probably a barley or oats. After checking in at hotel just across from the Perth Station, we walked downtown, looking for a late lunch. Since most restaurants are only open 12-2pm, we had missed the time. We finally went in tiny Grey Friars, more a pub, serving a delicious hot beef pie with the freshest green peas I've ever eaten.

A cute group of eight older folk were having a beverage, laughing and enjoying the day. The owner sent us to the Grey Friars Vemetery just across the road on our way back to the hotel. Artful gravestones dating mostly from the nineteenth century. The wind was so strong, my hood blew off but it was only a mile to the hotel. Yards are in full bloom right now, iris and roses, even azaleas.

A lovely time the hotel spa/pool area was refreshing before a light supper.

View from Braid Hills

Having "mastered" the Lothinair bus system in just two days, we are now in charge of life in Edinburgh.
ha

It is easy to catch the double decker buses just 50 yards from the hotel and travel the three miles from our Best Western hotel to downtown Edinburgh.  We visited the Holy Rood Gallery Friday, our first day here.  The usual art there was removed so we could see art borrowed from the Royal residences.  Our timing is perfect to see and hear much of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in a few weeks.

We tried to tour the Holy Rood Palace yesterday, but royal family was in residence (they don't say who) so the tours were shut down.   We'll try again today or tomorrow; after these two days, there are very few until August because of the Royal Family's schedule, and as the desk clerk said this morning, the Queen's Summer Garden Parties.   Sounds posh, doesn't it?

When Stan was finding us a hotel here in Edinburgh, we looked at several on the map; this was the farthest one out.  It was easy to imagine the three miles of city buildings that we'd have to pass to get to the Old Town castles and museums.  But I never envisioned looking out the hotel window and seeing all the roof tops all the way to the Edinburgh Castle, high on its volcanic hill, glimpses of the Firth of Forth behind it, dark stone buildings (rarely more than three stories) with slate roofs, a few spires from churches, the huge chunk of rock to the south of the Castle that is called Seat of Arthur (no clear reason why).  It is a perfect postcard view.  Hotel manager Clare has been talking to her coworkers for months about "Memphis" people getting the room with the view...and we are appreciative.  It is worth every step of the three flights of stairs.

We've already found the basic touristy info about our respective Scottish clan heritage, bought a few tiny items with appropriate tartan plaids as we've walked the old town areas.  There really are people on the streets wearing plaids: slacks, coats...not just the employees at palaces, hotels, etc.  And the shoes just aren't as nice as in Eastern Europe, whether it's the weather being so rainy or different access to leathers, or just taste.   There are many discount types of stores in town; some are the organizational ones that I know through internet only: SERRV, OXFAM; some are locally run.  There appears to be more acceptance of recycling all things household and clothing, not just the "throw away" items we typically sent to charities.  Tea shops, coffee shops, tiny food shops are also everywhere.  

The darkness of the stone used in construction is high contrast to the colors we saw in Istanbul and Ukraine; the dirt in flower beds appears extremely dark, too.   The ornamentation is far less, too.

Having been on the road 19 days, we are both reading papers here...but then, our ability to read Cyrillic alphabet was limited, wasn't it?   The main paper, offered free at the hotel, with shops every few blocks, is The Scotsman.  The earliest publication was edited several years by a Craig; isnt' that funny?

And a holiday speech, too.

Location, location, location!

Ukrainian Victory Day is actually May 9, but there is a monument with a soldier, a sailor and a marine just a few feet from our ship that is the site of speeches, dozens of school kids who walked across the pedestrian bridge to attend this morning. Our group was meeting this morning and heard the loud speaker so we simply watched them from the 5th deck as two older veterans and three younger politicians gave speeches. Then all the guests and the children, ages 9-15?, laid their flowers at the base of the statue.

We have a few hours of free time before an interview with an Orthodox seminary professor, then we fly to Istanbul for two nights. It is difficult to believe our time in the Ukraine is ending. At a farewell party last night we thanked our cruise guide, ate a bit of cheese and salami, drank a bit of vodka and shared a funny story and appreciation with her. Masha has worked on this ship several years, April to late October, so the crew is like a big family (110). We were their first cruise of the year, but everything has gone very smoothly. We will miss our beds being made every morning, our beds being turned down every evening and the candy on our pillows. The starched napkins are folded differently every lunch and dinner (shoes, pillow, book, rose, etc.) Waitress Diane and waiter Budalay serve every course, get our drinks, refill our coffee .... We are spoiled.

The Ukraine and its people will be dear to my heart now. Their centuries of suffering are beyond my comprehension but I so admire their tenacity and strong love of their heritage. All our guides have had amazing candor about hard times, even under the Soviets or current politicians.

Kiev

The crew begins early; they are washing the three upper decks and the cabin windows before the morning "radio" music begins to play at 7a.m. Our group are usually at breakfast early but this morning we leave the ship at 8a.m., boarding a bus for a driving and walking tour of a small part of Podol, the older part of this huge city. A tiny church of patron saint Nicholas is only a few hundred feet from our Dnieper Princess; as patron of sailors (and children) it is appropriate that he is patron saint of Kiev. In addition to the various destructive events of the 20th century, there was a huge fire in Kiev in 1811, meaning many popular buildings have been reconstructed at least once in the last 200 years. Statues and giant memorials seem to be in every direction; a titanium statue of Mother Russia was built in 1982, overlooking the river, the huge rainbow commemorating the brotherhood of Ukraine and Russia about the same time. (The 1500 year anniversary of Kiev and Rus were celebrated then). Some have been rebuilt since the 1991 independence from Russia.

St. Michael's Cathedral (for Archangel Michael) is the first we walk to, past a trio of Ukraine heroes. St. Olga, grandmother of Prince Vladimer who brought Christianity to Rus from Byzantium, in hopes of uniting the many different tribes of the eastern European area, is flanked by the figure of St. Andrew, reputed to have come near this area in the first century, sharing the Gospel, and the figures of brothers Methodius and Cyril, who failed at converting Rus to Christianity, but translated the Gospel for future generations by creating the Cyrillic alphabet. St. Michael's is gorgeous pale blue with white ornate trim. We hear one service being sung by priest in the surviving Ukrainian style refectory building, then hear the end of another service in the main chapel, at least 200 tourists and worshippers milling around and referencing the many icons, leaving flowers or lighting taper candles for prayers (only 1 UHL, or 12 cents). (remember that Orthodox don't sit but stand and walk around during their services)

We then walk a short distance to St Andrew's, but because of major road construction, we can only admire it 100 yards away. We walk another block back to the square, then enter the famous St. Sophia Cathedral, important when signing national documents, installing new leaders, etc. It is a museum, not an active church, but frescos from 11th century forward are visible on almost every surface. They have restored a few of the original ones in 1843-1853, but left some later layers showing, too. The iconostasis was redone on orders of Catherine the Great in rich golden Baroque style. The nineteen domes also glisten with gold

Kremenchug

This afternoon we have walked almost a mile into city center of Kremenchug. It's prime industry is making large cargo trucks. There was a delightful garden with bronze figures from several childrens fairy tales... Including Pinnocchio and the dwarves with Snow White, as well as a crocodile from Ukrainian children's tale.

The weather is warm and sunny. About 25 other English speaking people have joined our group of 14 for these few hours. Our group is from Ohio, NC, Chicago...all people who knew Bruce Rigdon one way or another. We try to have at least one "lecture" a day about Orthodoxy (just our 14), but there are some optional activities that a few of us sign up for that make each day's schedule different.

The sounds are probably most different; Ukrainian and Russian are spoken most on the ship. Ukrainian is the official language of the country since 1991 independence and dissolution of the USSR. Yet some cities, like Odessa, still use Russian...and there are Russians traveling on the ship. Most of them are not interested in our touristy trips off ship, instead sunning in the 4th deck. We had a language lesson yesterday morning; 36 characters to the Cyrillic alphabet. It seems that half of them sound like s, sh, ch, sch, stch, or x. Town names, names of historical figures all seem to be a minimum of five syllables, and spelled differently every time I see them transcribed into English, making it difficult to be sure who is being spoken of. In addition, the Ukraine is positioned centrally, like Kansas, and also the bread basket of this area. And for at least 10 centuries, has been coveted and conquered from one side or the other: Polish from the west, Turkey from the south, Russia from the north, and the Mongols from the east having been the most destructive. And the geographic names change through the centuries.

Do you sense the confusion for us? A four part film has actually been very helpful to follow the development from around 900 A.D. Through the 21 years of independence for the Ukraine.

People look much the same, just more skirts for women, men always are carrying some sort of valued or tote bag and the shoes of men and women are terrific!

Food continues to be very good; soup and salad accompany entrees for every lunch and dinner, as well as desserts. Starched napkins are a table standard, folded beautifully in various shapes. There was a napkin folding lesson this morning, including a Cossack shoe, a rose, a carnation, a fan, a double candlestick, a pillow, etc.